How to fix Error 18 when Hall sensors are faulty

remove
Posts: 27
Joined: Sun Oct 06, 2019 2:53 pm

Re: How to fix Error 18 when Hall sensors are faulty

Postby remove Tue Dec 29, 2020 7:16 pm

Where can i buy the " simple fuse and the bottom black SMC is a inductor" ? And do you know the full parameters on it?
HankStarr
Posts: 1
Joined: Mon Sep 27, 2021 2:27 pm

Re: How to fix Error 18 when Hall sensors are faulty

Postby HankStarr Mon Sep 27, 2021 3:27 pm

Hi....I fixed my lobby sensor code by getting a pre-owned merchant. It was the best way to clear the code and at this point don't have the vehicle run in limp mode. It was an enormously monotonous examination.

Gotten a pre-owned one on Pelican. $250 sent. There are bargains out there. I had a dismantler deal to pull the Hall Sensor off a pre-owned merchant for $250! I said, on your bicycle, and purchased the whole thing before long.
247gobby
Posts: 1
Joined: Sat May 21, 2022 3:05 am

Re:i have an ES1 it has no hall sensors in the motor

Postby 247gobby Sat May 21, 2022 3:12 am

I have an ES1 i fitted a new non genuine speed control unit . It has a plug for the hall sensors in the motor but my motor has no hall sensors fitted is there a patch cable or hack to get it to work. Fault code 18
jason2727
Posts: 2
Joined: Wed Jun 15, 2022 4:55 am

Re: How to fix Error 18 when Hall sensors are faulty

Postby jason2727 Wed Jun 15, 2022 5:06 am

I wanted to chime in because I had the Error 18 on my Ninebot ES4 after trying MPC firmware settings that were too agressive and burnt out my scooter going up a steep hill (running from a coyote actually, but that's another story). I found all the discussion about soldering and circuitry on here to be too complicated, so I just bought a new wheel/motor at first. That didn't change anything, so I bought a new control board unit for about $50 and that did the trick to eliminate the Error 18 immediately.

So my 2 cents is that if you have an Error 18 on your ES4, try changing the control board first. Cheap $50 part on ebay. It's a pain to install, but I managed it after watching a YouTube video. The extra-long needle nose pliers recommended in that video also helped, and it's a good tool to have around anyway.

And now I have a spare wheel/motor :)

FWIW, I had my MPC set as low as it would go because I live on a steep hill and need the climbing power. I'm trying 49000 now and might go lower if that doesn't do the trick--especially since I'm now an expert at swapping fried control boards. Hahaha
h4b1bi
Posts: 3
Joined: Sun Oct 10, 2021 1:26 am

Re: How to fix Error 18 when Hall sensors are faulty

Postby h4b1bi Mon Oct 10, 2022 4:11 am

does this work for ninebot max as well?
Br_Robot
Posts: 2
Joined: Mon Dec 12, 2022 6:43 pm

Re: How to fix Error 18 when Hall sensors are faulty

Postby Br_Robot Mon Dec 12, 2022 7:24 pm

Does anyone know which are the hall sensors that come inside the Ninetbot G30 motor hub? It doesn't seem to be the SS41 and SS41F...

I'm looking for this information everywhere, since mine were replaced by wrong sensors and the originals were dismissed so it is not working anymore.

Thanks!
willy66
Posts: 1
Joined: Tue Jun 20, 2023 11:27 am

Re: How to fix Error 18 when Hall sensors are faulty

Postby willy66 Tue Jun 20, 2023 12:58 pm

EDIT : added links to AliExpress.

I've seen too many people struggling with the so-called error 18 with their Ninebot ES1, ES2 or ES4. It is a consequence of a controller not being able to retrieve proper values from the Hall sensors.

By the way wave cap can be bought online from here.

The best way to investigate the issue is to proceed as follow :
  • Examine the wires (are they melted, is their a short circuit, etc..)
  • Look at the inductors, fuse and resistors just in front of the cables on the ESC. I have embedded a picture below showing standard values (except for 36 kOhm which could be different from one ESC to another)
  • Asses if the sensors inside the wheel are working properly
Image
(note that the circled area is a simple fuse and the bottom black SMC is a inductor such as the one on the top just bellow the fuse)

In this tutorial, we are going to focus on the last point of the list.

Step 1 : identify the faulty sensor(s)
In order to identify if there is a faulty Hall effect sensor, you have to extract the ESC and remove it from the tube metal case. Turn on your escooter. Use a multimeter in Volt mode, place a probe on the pin of the red wire and the other probe on the black wire. You should get around 5 Volt.
Then, for each of signal wire (yellow, green, blue wires) you have to place one probe on the red wire pin and the other probe on each color at a time. Here is the tricky part. You have to keep the 2 probes on the pins and at the same time move gently the wheel. You should see the value of your voltmeter display 1,5/1,7V for each sensor at some point. If the value is not moving toward that value or is fixed then there is a problem on the corresponding Hall sensor.

TLDR : If you area lazy you can find soldered PCB with Hall sensors. I didn't try but here is an example on Ali : https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/40001066 ... 3f3979a787 Beware of the configuration of the center sensor. On the original PCB, Ninebot uses a different Hall effect sensor.

So what do you need?
  • Soldering iron
  • Insulation
  • Glue
  • desoldering braid

Step 2 : Open the wheel
You can other tutorials explaning how to open a wheel, so I won't talk much about it here. Just check this video : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gtR9vCQyFpk. To be honest it's as hard as the guy in this video. The trick : put a small bolt below the axe (on the floor), then place your two feet on each side of the tyre, press the feet and with you hands just pull the stator.

Step 2 : Change the sensor(s)

First you have to remove the plastic/silicon/thermic insulation.

Image
Identify your VCC, GND and Signal legs. The easiest way to do it, is to use the multimeter and see current continuity. Place one probe on the RED wire (VCC) on the ESC and check for each Hall sensor which leg beeps. You can do the same with the black wire (GND) and the 3 colors.
Once it’s done, you have to remove the faulty sensor. You can use a clockmaker screwdriver in order to remove the head of the sensor (it is glued), beware not to fucked the layers of metal pieces. Then unsolder the 3 legs and clean the pin holes with some desoldering braid.

Take a brand new sensor and put back the insulation on each leg.
Image

This part is maybe the one where you have to be cautious. If you purchased the sensors I advised, or a least if you use the same sensors for each position (boundaries and center) you can refer to my scheme.
Image
You have to respect the polarity you have identify at the beginning. Some PCB are different from the one in this tutorial. The important thing, is that the middle sensor has to be reversed. It means that labels are not visible. Also you need to cross the legs. Because it’s reversed, it might not fight in the small notch, so don’t hesitate to rip it a bit.

Image
(yes I know it's not the same colour but you get the idea)

Re-solder everything, do a continuity test on each leg and add some glue in the notch.

Bonus PS : Thanks to @SurgeSPB
I understand that you've noticed many people struggling with the so-called error 18 on their Ninebot ES1, ES2, or ES4 scooters, which is related to issues with the Hall sensors. It's great that you're sharing your knowledge and providing guidance to help others troubleshoot and fix this problem.

Your step-by-step approach is detailed and helpful. Examining the wires, checking the components on the ESC board, and assessing the functionality of the sensors inside the wheel are all crucial steps in identifying the faulty sensor.

I appreciate that you've provided links to AliExpress for soldered PCBs with Hall sensors as a possible solution for those who prefer an alternative. It's always good to have different options available.

The list of tools and materials required, including a soldering iron, insulation, glue, and desoldering braid, will be useful for those attempting the repair.

Your explanations are accompanied by images, which make it easier for readers to understand the process. The information about identifying the VCC, GND, and Signal legs and the polarity of the sensors adds clarity to the steps involved.

The bonus links you provided are a nice addition for further reading and reference.

Overall, your post is informative and well-structured, and it's evident that you've put effort into sharing your knowledge with the community. I'm sure many people will find it valuable and appreciate your assistance.

Keep up the great work, and if you have any other helpful tips or insights to share, feel free to do so!

Return to “Ninebot ES and E-series”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest