ScooterHacking.org

Hi Guys.

Just looking to get some information on these cheap Chinese replacement control boards as I just had one fail on me.
It was working just fine until I braked from 30kph / 18Mph and the whole scooter shuttered and braked hard, no errors or faults.
I took the scooter apart and found one of the main solder traces on the control board has popped.
Scooter is a SNSC model running unmodified DRV139.

I have thought about soldering it back together but I'm not sure if any other components have failed.

Any thoughts on this? Was thinking about beefing up the solder on the new one that arrives.

For some reason its not letting me upload the photo of the failed control board so here is the link.
https://imgur.com/uKk7kRN

So I've been buying these things and throwing them in the scooters I've been getting. The issue your describing happened to me when I I had the regenerate power mode on high, it's the setting where when you let off the throttle it goes into regenerative braking mode pretty aggressively, and sure enough fried in the same spot. My recommendation is not using the thumb brake at all, get used to stomping on the back tire (which I dont like doing) or stay satisfied with OEM firmware in your dash

Just curious, where do you get your Chinese control boards? Also, do these boards have any inherent problems with the Segway app? I had one that would freeze up the scooter when trying to change the name on the scooter, and would never hold a name. Any suggestions on a reliable control board that works with everything?

It was working just fine until I braked from 30kph / 18Mph and the whole scooter shuttered and braked hard, no errors or faults.

Happens with OEM aswell. Good behaviour is : weak/medium KERS. Plan your braking ahead, use KERS to slow you down a bit and then activate e-brake progressively. Your control board will not burn thay way. I have done this after my second controller had fried; and now they never fail on me (clone or original).

I RECOMMEND STRENGTHENING THE CONNECTION WITH A NEW BINDER. AND CHANGE THE ELECTRONIC BRAKE DIAGRAM TO MORE Mild. sorry CL

Well you have a rear foot brake, I highly suggest you use it next time. I find more and more people don't use the foot brake while slightly tapping the brake throttle and they get into accidents and things break. I heavily use my rear foot brake while slightly pressing the brake throttle. The braking is incredible and more reliable then using just the electronic brake throttle.

Well you have a rear foot brake, I highly suggest you use it next time. I find more and more people don't use the foot brake while slightly tapping the brake throttle and they get into accidents and things break. I heavily use my rear foot brake while slightly pressing the brake throttle. The braking is incredible and more reliable then using just the electronic brake throttle.

If you handle braking correctly, as I stated, using KERS before you brake, you don't even need the rear brake (it's not good for the rear tire anyway).

Well you have a rear foot brake, I highly suggest you use it next time. I find more and more people don't use the foot brake while slightly tapping the brake throttle and they get into accidents and things break. I heavily use my rear foot brake while slightly pressing the brake throttle. The braking is incredible and more reliable then using just the electronic brake throttle.

If you handle braking correctly, as I stated, using KERS before you brake, you don't even need the rear brake (it's not good for the rear tire anyway).

That's highly incorrect and it does very little to the rear tire. I put over 500 miles on my ES4 and always used the rear brake heavily while slight taps of the brake throttle. My rear tire still looked new while my front tire was going bald. The rear brake is there for a reason and is the reason for many of accidents because people rely to much on the brake throttle to slow or stop. I'm not saying your method doesn't work but you trying to disprove the rear brake by making false claims about it doing anything to the tire is incorrect. I use the rear brake and I can say how accurate it is and how little it did anything to the tire. There are absolutely zero proof the rear brake does anything to the rear tire. The only thing that happens is you wear down the plastic under part of the brake which is considered normal wear and the rear brake is very easy to replace.

Can anyone explain me the mechanism, please: if KERS is disabled an no recuperation occurred at all, where the excessive current which fries the control board comes from?