ScooterHacking.org

Hello- I am new to this stuff. We have a broken Ninebot G30P Max. The scooter would turn on, but as soon as the motor should activate (throttle and kick off), it would turn off. When I opened it, the wires were melted together, which I understand is a common problem. I put new connectors on, but it doesn't work. Here is what I know:

When I test continuity on the controller, I get continuity on the postiive+blue and negative+blue. I understand that means the mosfitts on the controller are bad, and it's probably not worth trying to fix with the silicone protection. I ordered a new controller that arrives tomorrow.

The motor turns with a soft "clicking feel" when the controller is connected, and it turns pretty freely when the controller is not connected. I understand that is good. However, every single continuity test I run on the motor across the three wires shows continuity. I can only imagine that means the motor is fried, right?

If so, any suggestions on a replacement motor? Not needing anything crazy.

Thank you for your help!

Well, nobody replied but if anyone ever wonders: When I got the new controller and plugged it in, the wheel did not have the "thumpy" rythym, I guess because the new controller wasn't shorted out. I put the new controller in and it works fine, even though there was continuity across any/all of the 3 terminals in the motor. So I guess that is normal for the motor.

Any method for this situation? world of mario

The common issue with the Max G30 is the 3 phase wires getting too hot and melting together causing electrical issues at random. Usually the best fix for this is to either break away and clean the melted plastic to expose the metal bullet connectors (inside and out) and reinsulate with high quality shrink tube or shrink wrap, or cut away the damage length of wire and replace with new higher quality (gold) bullet connectors and proper insulation. Then, make sure to turn OFF kers so that no back charge is happening. I have fixed hundreds of these Max's like this usually because heavy riders or downhill junkies like to turn on KERS to Medium or High, not knowing this is actually bad for the controller.

Every single one of the motor's three wires passes a continuity test that I do on it. That must indicate the motor is fried, I suppose.
woodoku

This may be an issue with your multimeter. Voltage potential can go off as continuity on DMM/AMMs and what you are reading could be that. If you scooter is working then continuity is alright.