Tutorial!!! SNSC 2.3 Aka Ninebot Max Plus conversion
Posted: Fri Aug 26, 2022 1:00 am
In this tutorial we will talk about how to convert your Legaly aquired Ninebot max Plus which i will be referring to as SNSC 2.3 in this tutorial.
In this tutorial i am going to talk about the Voi one, Bolt and etc have slight changes that include the removal of an openly accesable IoT box and overall some difference‘s.
First of all you need
-STLink
-CP2102 UART flasher
-PC or Laptop with Ninebot IAP
And some patience :)
The very first thing were gonna do is flash the BMS, but be careful!!! There are 3 Batteries i know of,
1. 27800MAH not flashable with working BMS but can flash DRV on to to bypass it
2. newest Battery 300000MAH with 21700 cells!!!! Unknown if flashable, try BMS 153 if error also flash random DRV
3. 15300MAH battery model number NE1006-M1 flashable ✅
so what your gonna do if the legal seller didn’t do it already is remove the 3 screw holding in the IoT Box, and unplugging it, then unplug the interconnect cable from the Juliet Plug (the round green 5 pin), then you get something really thin like needles and wrap your CP2102 wires around them, the side with the arrow is the top, from there connect ground to the upper right RX beneath and TX at the bottom, DONT SWITCH UP SIDES!!! if you accidentally connect to the holes on the left you fry you adapter and probably your computers USB port as the one in the top left is the 36V output, once everything wired up you need to plug the battery in the Controller, now start Ninebot IAP on your pc and go to the serial tab, then find out in device manager on which port your CP2102 is and connect matchingly, if it says connected but no version infos showing switch up TX and RX, then you wanna enable Advanced settings in the Ninebot IAP app, after that you will flash the BMS, select BMS and then load from repo, select Ninebot max and upload BMS to your liking, that it, now everything should work, if not you did something wrong and probably bricked your BMS, which isnt that bad cuz then its 99% bypassed, if that happens go to Xiaodash and emulate the BMS, there is enough info on the internet.
So, the dashboard is a different story, first of all remove that pesky cover by getting rid of the sticker (yes its a sticker) and start unscrewing, then disconnect all the cables and throw it away, seriously, there isnt even an on button on there and adding one+flashing isn’t worth it, it also has no Speedometer only 3 dots, so throw it straight out and get a cheap replacement if possible original, fakes sometimes dont have a proper storage which causes them to brick after flashing over BLE.
Now for the hardest party, the Controller, this needs to be done via stlink, the Pinout is:
Square Pad=Ground
Middle one is SWDCLK
And the last it SWIDO
Connect your 5V on the battery connector on the Data pin in the center, DO NOT connect it to either the minus or the plus, this will cause your STLink to short out and your USB port too(speaking from experience), when connected disable readout protection and flash DRV to your liking, i you have problems, just look up a Ninebot max STLink guide, no need to rewire anything then its just plug‘n play, i haven’t found a place where to buy new dashboard cover, if YOU find one please send the link here :)
I do have an 3D Printer files for one tho, i also got it from the internet, pn for it if i dont respond look for it yourself, easy to find.
Info!!!
————————————————————————
the Newest Battery uses 21700 Samung Cells!!! Which is pretty darn good for a (ex)shared scooter, this is by faar the best battery of the three
The other one with 27800MAH uses Samsung E50 cells if im not mistaken, they are also quite good, the battery fits in an Normal ninebot max without the stupid housing.
The worst but also the best uses Shitty 18650cells from Eve (cheap china manufacturer) they are by far the cheapest and the worst, but the have a working BMS tho
There are also several Motor‘s, all of them have a serial number that starts with an 6, but there is a version that is even better than the gen 2 Motor!!!
It goes 45KMH with 41V (BMS bypassed) and has waaay more torque, id like to call it Gen2+ :)
The other ones are just gen 1 Motors, you can tell them apart by the housing, the Bad ones have screws on both sides of the Motor, on the Serial number side and on the other side and the Gen2+ motors only have screws on the Serial number side, the newer Scooters also go completely away from the Ninebot max‘s design language and dont even use CST tires anymore, the newer ones have a 12inch front wheel compared to the 10inch ones, the newer ones also have an uglier mudgard, but Ninebot Max‘s is interchangeable.
This is not a tutorial for Stolen scooters and i take no responsibility for stolen scooters and or damage caused while trying this tutorial.
If you have improvement suggestions please drop them down below.
I will also try to help if you pn me.
Sorry for some mistakes, i am just an 14 YO german student :)
In this tutorial i am going to talk about the Voi one, Bolt and etc have slight changes that include the removal of an openly accesable IoT box and overall some difference‘s.
First of all you need
-STLink
-CP2102 UART flasher
-PC or Laptop with Ninebot IAP
And some patience :)
The very first thing were gonna do is flash the BMS, but be careful!!! There are 3 Batteries i know of,
1. 27800MAH not flashable with working BMS but can flash DRV on to to bypass it
2. newest Battery 300000MAH with 21700 cells!!!! Unknown if flashable, try BMS 153 if error also flash random DRV
3. 15300MAH battery model number NE1006-M1 flashable ✅
so what your gonna do if the legal seller didn’t do it already is remove the 3 screw holding in the IoT Box, and unplugging it, then unplug the interconnect cable from the Juliet Plug (the round green 5 pin), then you get something really thin like needles and wrap your CP2102 wires around them, the side with the arrow is the top, from there connect ground to the upper right RX beneath and TX at the bottom, DONT SWITCH UP SIDES!!! if you accidentally connect to the holes on the left you fry you adapter and probably your computers USB port as the one in the top left is the 36V output, once everything wired up you need to plug the battery in the Controller, now start Ninebot IAP on your pc and go to the serial tab, then find out in device manager on which port your CP2102 is and connect matchingly, if it says connected but no version infos showing switch up TX and RX, then you wanna enable Advanced settings in the Ninebot IAP app, after that you will flash the BMS, select BMS and then load from repo, select Ninebot max and upload BMS to your liking, that it, now everything should work, if not you did something wrong and probably bricked your BMS, which isnt that bad cuz then its 99% bypassed, if that happens go to Xiaodash and emulate the BMS, there is enough info on the internet.
So, the dashboard is a different story, first of all remove that pesky cover by getting rid of the sticker (yes its a sticker) and start unscrewing, then disconnect all the cables and throw it away, seriously, there isnt even an on button on there and adding one+flashing isn’t worth it, it also has no Speedometer only 3 dots, so throw it straight out and get a cheap replacement if possible original, fakes sometimes dont have a proper storage which causes them to brick after flashing over BLE.
Now for the hardest party, the Controller, this needs to be done via stlink, the Pinout is:
Square Pad=Ground
Middle one is SWDCLK
And the last it SWIDO
Connect your 5V on the battery connector on the Data pin in the center, DO NOT connect it to either the minus or the plus, this will cause your STLink to short out and your USB port too(speaking from experience), when connected disable readout protection and flash DRV to your liking, i you have problems, just look up a Ninebot max STLink guide, no need to rewire anything then its just plug‘n play, i haven’t found a place where to buy new dashboard cover, if YOU find one please send the link here :)
I do have an 3D Printer files for one tho, i also got it from the internet, pn for it if i dont respond look for it yourself, easy to find.
Info!!!
————————————————————————
the Newest Battery uses 21700 Samung Cells!!! Which is pretty darn good for a (ex)shared scooter, this is by faar the best battery of the three
The other one with 27800MAH uses Samsung E50 cells if im not mistaken, they are also quite good, the battery fits in an Normal ninebot max without the stupid housing.
The worst but also the best uses Shitty 18650cells from Eve (cheap china manufacturer) they are by far the cheapest and the worst, but the have a working BMS tho
There are also several Motor‘s, all of them have a serial number that starts with an 6, but there is a version that is even better than the gen 2 Motor!!!
It goes 45KMH with 41V (BMS bypassed) and has waaay more torque, id like to call it Gen2+ :)
The other ones are just gen 1 Motors, you can tell them apart by the housing, the Bad ones have screws on both sides of the Motor, on the Serial number side and on the other side and the Gen2+ motors only have screws on the Serial number side, the newer Scooters also go completely away from the Ninebot max‘s design language and dont even use CST tires anymore, the newer ones have a 12inch front wheel compared to the 10inch ones, the newer ones also have an uglier mudgard, but Ninebot Max‘s is interchangeable.
This is not a tutorial for Stolen scooters and i take no responsibility for stolen scooters and or damage caused while trying this tutorial.
If you have improvement suggestions please drop them down below.
I will also try to help if you pn me.
Sorry for some mistakes, i am just an 14 YO german student :)